Anuradhapura

The cities of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Kandy were the ancient capitals of Sri Lanka. These cities form part of the, Cultural Triangle Project, which is a restoration programme funded by the government and UNESCO.

Founded in about the fourth century AD, Anuradhapura was the first ancient capital of Sri Lanka. The devotee is obliged to visit the eight sacred places within the city. These are the Bo- tree and places of worship called the Abhayagiri, the Thuparama, the Jetavanarama, the Mirisaveti, the Ruvanweli, the Isurumuni Vihara and the Lankarama.

The city is bounded by the huge reservoirs which were created by various kings. The largest, Nuwara Wewa, lies to the east and two smaller ones, the Basawakkulama and the Tissa Wewa, the oldest tank in Sri Lanka.

The Sacred Bo Tree, over 2,000 years old, is probably the oldest tree in the world. The original sapling was brought from northern India by Mahinda’s sister, Princess Sangamitta amid great pomp and ceremony.

Ruvanweli Seya located to the east of the Basawakkulama Tank and surrounded by a sand courtyard. The work was started by Kind Dutugemunu in 161 BC. The massive white stupa be built in the’ water bubble’ shape. The stupa rises to about 150ft and is crowned with a crystal measuring 1ft. At its base is a wall studded with 338 elephant heads with the bodies concealed inside the wall so as to give the impression that they are supporting the edifice. It is said that there was an underground passage leading to the interior of the dagaba which only the king was permitted to enter. The dagaba is surrounded by four limestone statues of the future Buddha which were added in 8^th century.

The Brazen Palace, or as it is properly called, the Lowa Maha Paya, was built near the Maha Vihara as a dwelling place for its priests. It stood on 16000 pillars of granite forty rows of forty pillars in each row. Most of these pillars, rising twelve feet above the ground, may still be seen, and they are all that remain of this remarkable building. The palace was 100 cubits long, 100 cubits broad and 100 cubits high. It had nine storeys one over the other, with 100 richly – decorated rooms in each storey. The priests of highest merit lived in the four highest storeys, and the lower ones were occupied by the priests according to their different grades, so that the priests of lowest rank had rooms on the lowest floor .The roof of the palace was covered with sheets of brass, and that is why it came to be called the Brazen Palace.

North of the Ruwanweli is the small but elegant Thuparama Dagaba which is the oldest in Sri Lanka and contains the collarbone of the Buddha. Built by King Devanampiyatissa in the third century, in the ‘paddy – heap ‘shape, it was altered to the ‘bell ‘shape in restoration. The collarbone of the Buddha was installed inside the dagaba.

The south of the Basawakkulama Tank is the Mirisaveti Dagaba. At the time of its construction, it was probably the largest monument of its type in the world. It was so well – built that its foundations have shown no signs of settlement even after 2000 years. This was king Ditugemunu’s first dagaba, which he built between 161 and 158BC to commemorate the recovery of his kingdom from invading forces. One day he gorged himself on a chili condiment and did away with the usual ceremony of sharing his food with the monks. The only way he could make amends was to name the dagaba after the Sinhalese word for the chili condiment which is Mirisaveti.

South beside the Tissa Wewa reservoir is the Isurumuni Temple which is carved out of natural rock. It dates back to the third century BC, but was rediscovered by archaeologists in the latter half of the nineteenth century. The tile – roofed temple is bordered by three lotus ponds ornamented with sculptures of elephants and water lilies The terraces leading up to the shrine are decorated with frescoes and one of the most famous carvings is the one known as ‘ The Lovers’ showing a woman sitting on a man’s lap.

Abhayagiri Dagaba which was built by King Walagamba in 103BC as a centre for the practice of Mahayana Buddhism. It is measured 400ft high. This stood on land occupied by a Jain hermit called Giri. Abhayagiri is an amalgamation of the king’s name Abhaya and Giri, the hermit’s name.

Lankarama Dagaba is small and dilapidated and surrounded by three circles of pillars of varying heights.

The Twin ponds or Kuttam Pokuna lie to the east of the Abhayagiri Dagaba have been recently restored. They were bathing pools which belonged to monastery. One is bigger than the other but they are identical in style.

Samadhi Buddha which dates to the third century. This sedent Buddha with the hands in the position of the dhyana mudra is in the meditative position.

South from the Kuttam Pokuna is the Jetavanarama Dagaba. It is the largest of its kind in the world and was stared by King Mahasena in 330AD. He is best remembered for the construction of sixteen reservoirs or tanks which brought agricultural prosperity to the north – west, but he made himself unpopular. It is measured 232ft high.

Mihintale

Mihintale means the ‘rock of Mahinda’ after Mahinda who brought Buddhism to Sri Lanka. Mihintale tends to stand in the shadow of Anuradhapura, but it was here on this rocky hill where King Devanampiyatissa was actually converted to Buddhism. The rock is riddled with shrines and rock dwellings and because it involves climbing up 1840 steps to reach the summit. Ambasthala dagaba which stands on a little plateau at the top of the main stairway on the hill. Kanthaka Chaitiya, a small bubble shaped dome built on three terraces with four vahalkadas or decorative panels placed at the four cardinal points. There are monastic remains of a dining hall and a tenth – century vihara on the way up to the Maha Seya at the top of the hill. This dagaba was built around the first century BC and is supposed to house a single hair of the Buddha.

Sigiriya

Sri Lanka’s oldest treasures, the 1500 years old Sigiriya Rock Fortress. This huge cylindrical rock soars 400ft and was the domain of King Kassyapa, more frequently known as the Parricide king. During his occupation at Sigiriya he gouged a gallery or walkway from bare rock and shielded it with a 10ft wall which was so highly polished that it became known as the Mirror wall. When passing the walkway, there a set of spiral steps to another gallery some 40ft above to a sheltered pocket, to be faced with some beautiful frescoes called the Sigiriya Maidens. There were originally 500 of these bare – breasted women but time and weather have left just eighteen of them. Some say that they were King Kassyapa’s wives, that they were goddesses from the mists of mythology, or that they were ladies of the court. Climb another set of steps to reach the first level known as the Lion Terrace. There used to be an intimidating structure of a lion protecting the entrance to the King’s Palace, but you get an idea of its size by just looking at the dimensions of the massive paws that remain. The hardy can continue the limb along an iron stairway that zig zags across the sheer rock face to the summit.

Dambulla

Dambulla is famous cave temple. In the first century BC this Buddhist shrine was the temporary home of King Vatagamini Abhaya who fled with his family from Anuradhapura after repeated south Indian invasions. 500ft incline of undulating granite on which the temple is built. The temple itself lies two- thirds of the way up.

There are five caves, which give protection from the heat, with the largest collection of Buddha images in Sri Lanka. Most of the interest lies in the first two caves. In the first cave there is a recumbent image of the Buddha, 47ft long and cut out of the rock, and a statue of King Vatagamini. The ceilings are covered in frescoes depicting the history of Buddhism. In the second cave there is a statue of King Rajasingha who extended the cave in the 18^th century, adding more life size statues of gods and Buddhas. First cave the ceiling is covered in frescoes.

Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa was the second great capital of Sri Lanka between the 11^th and 13^th centuries. The city is dominated by the Parakrama Samudra, a huge inland sea, built by King Parakramabahu I. This is a huge reservoir some 5600 acres in size and is the lifeblood of the area, providing water for irrigation of farms and crops.

Citadel which was the king’s inner fortress and administrative centre. It is surrounded by the remains of a thick stone wall.

Inside is the Royal Palace built by king Parakramabahu I. The original palace stood seven storeys high and the king would have had splendid views across the reservoir. The walls were exceptionally thick and although the building techniques were similar to those used in Anuradhapura more use was made of lime mortar and bricks.

At eastwards to find the Kumara Pokuna or the Royal Bath. It had its own drainage system and the main water supply came from the Parakrama Samudra nearby. This pond has steps leading down and the borders are decorated with carved elephants and lions.

Thuparama Image house with its original roof, fine stone carvings and walls 7ft thick inside is a lovely Buddha made from special granite that glitters under certain light. The warden will light a match and hold it over the statue to show the effect. At the Buddha’s feet are offerings of jasmine and frangipani left by pilgrims.

Vatadage that it was built by King Nissanka Malla in the 12^th century. This circular relic house with its four Buddhas looking out to four points of the compass is the finest in Polonnaruwa. The stone pillars originally supported a wooden domed roof. The best preserved Buddha faces north where there is a lovely moonstone at the bottom of the steps.

King Nissanka Malla’s creations, the Hatadage or the Shrine of sixty relics. It was built to house the original Sacred Tooth Relic which is now at Kandy. The moonstone and guard stones are particularly well preserved.

Gal Potha, this massive 27ft long stone slab covered in Sinhalese script. The script is still being deciphered, but translations made so far extol the virtues of King Nissanka Malla who in his time also invaded India.

Sathmahal Prasada which translated means the ‘Edifice of Seven Stories’. This dagaba, constructed in the 12^th century, is shaped like a square pyramid in seven tiers, each ornamented with statues. It was built or by whom remains a mystery.

Rankot Vehera made by King Nishshanka Malla. It is surrounded by an enormous sand courtyard which you must cross in bare feet. At 180ft high and with a circumference of 550ft. It is the largest dagaba in Polonnaruwa being currently restored by UNESCO.

In Gal Vihara, there are standing Buddha and finally a massive recumbent Buddha. There are differences in opinion as to whether the standing image is that of Ananda, who was Buddha’s disciple or the Buddha himself but whoever it is, the 23ft figure is remarkable piece of sculpture that must have taken years to complete. The recumbent Buddha has always fascinated visitors for its sheer size 46ft and its serene beauty. It symbolizes the passing away or nirvana.

Lotus Bath which was built by King Nissanka Malla it is shaped like a lotus flower with five concentric rings of petals that allowed the bathers to step down and into the water.

The Sage which has come to be recognized as a statue of King Parakramabahu I, one of the great architects of Polonnaruwa’s town planning, temples and tanks. The stone figure of a bearded man is holding what looks like a yoke which symbolizes royalty. Very close by is the Potgul Vehera, a circular brick built shrine enclosed by four small dagabas.